Le Calette N. 5 in Hotel Le Calette

Le Calette N. 5 in Hotel Le Calette

Cefalù is one of the most beautiful towns on the Sicilian coast, built around a Norman cathedral and a dramatic rock promontory that drops straight into the sea. Most people who come here stay in town. Le Calette N°5 is two kilometres outside it, tucked into the cliffs of the Caldura Bay, which is the better decision. The hotel has been on this stretch of coast for over fifty years, run by the same family, and has the kind of rootedness that no amount of renovation produces on its own. The complex is built into the natural folds of the coastline, Mediterranean architecture following the cliffs down to a series of private coves and rocky beaches, with bougainvillea climbing the whitewashed walls and citrus and olive trees throughout the grounds. Le Calette N°5 is the five-star wing, with 39 rooms and suites, each individually designed with Sicilian tiles, local materials, and terraces or gardens that open directly onto the sea. The cabana rooms, which sit closest to the water, are the ones to ask about when you book. There are three restaurants and the distinction is worth knowing. Cala Luna is the fine dining option, set under the stars right at the water's edge with an open kitchen, and the place to go for a serious dinner. Calette Reef is the casual terrace overlooking the bay, open June to September, which handles long lunches well. The beach club, also seasonal, has king-sized sunbeds and its own massage area out on the rocks. The hotel also has a speedboat available for guests, which the concierge can arrange for trips to the Aeolian Islands or to swimming spots that are otherwise difficult to reach. Palermo is about 90 minutes away, which makes the island's western sites, Segesta, Agrigento, the Valle dei Templi, doable as day trips if you plan them well. The short version: A family-run hotel that has earned its place on one of Sicily's best stretches of coast over five decades. The setting is the main event, and it is a very good one.